Driver Radio: Jamaica, Episode 1

-This isn't a pothole.

What do you call it?

-Trench.

-I'm like, clinched.

[ Thud, rattling ] -Ooh.

-Ooh.

-Okay.

♪♪ -We're Ron and Don Brodie, first-generation Jamericans.

When we were little, our parents would bring us to Jamaica to learn about our heritage.

-You think this one is good?

-Yeah!

-Now we're back to navigate our own route, with help from local drivers along the way.

This is "Driver Radio: Jamaica."

[ Indistinct conversations ] -When I come to Jamaica, as soon as I touch down, whether it be on the north coast or down here in Kingston, I feel this instant calm.

[ Mid-tempo music plays ] I think if you go straight, there's a shopping center where there's a Tastee's patty.

-All right.

-In the urban, urban areas of Kingston, in a little bar, or it could be out in the remote country -- I get the same vibe when I come here just because I know where I'm coming from.

-Jamaica is a place that exists with real people, good culture, good food, beautiful beaches, amazing music, good weed smoke -- everything.

-It's a good starting point to get ideas flowing and things off the ground.

-Kingston's completely different from where I grew up.

-You have that density, the traffic.

-I've driven in Jamaica before, but, man, it's kind of a terrifying thing to think about doing again.

With the appropriation of Jamaican culture around the world, we wanted to catch Kingston's city vibe.

To get out and explore, we radioed for a driver to take us downtown.

[ Air horn blares ] -With dancehall becoming one of Kingston's biggest attractions, our first stop was to the Dancehall Hostel.

We learned about culture from the inner city that's continually growing more popularity throughout the world.

-I'm Ron.

It's a pleasure to meet you.

-[ Laughs ] They call me Orville Xpressionz or Dancehall Professor And you are presently in the Dancehall District.

-Growing up, we would visit family in Kingston.

However, they never dreamt of taking us to this part of the city.

-This is our chill spot.

We have a bar here.

-Yes.

-I think we can hold another four bunk beds inside.

-Are you seeing a lot more people coming to places like this in search of authentic experiences?

-Yeah, definitely.

They go to the five-star hotels, but to really get a true slice of Jamaica, they have been coming into different communities.

We've seen people from so many different places around the world, all learning more about not just dancehall but the whole Jamaican culture.

-Taxis were often thought to be unsafe or unreliable by tourists and locals alike.

Now this downtown market has become actively competitive with the rising thirst for an authentic dancehall experience.

-I don't think there's anywhere else in the world that does what Jamaica does where party is concerned.

You can go to at least three parties a night every night in Kingston.

We went to a function, and we called for a cab.

The guy drove up and stepped out of the car and opened the car door, and he was absolutely on time.

There was Wi-Fi in the vehicle and he said good afternoon, and he gave us his card.

We don't see this much in Jamaica.

I didn't know people love serving people as a taxi driver that much.

[ Mid-tempo music plays ] [ Engine revs ] ♪♪ [ Tape rewinding, air horn blares ] -With plans to develop the city's harbor, authorities are looking to crack down on these street parties.

However, many see these gatherings as relief from the city's daily struggles, or, as a Jamaican would say, sufferations.

-If people know the history of Jamaica parties feed the community -- the man who sell the soup, the man who sell the peanut on the rack, the man who sells him herb, the taxi drivers -- Everybody can benefit, and everybody can feel like a part of this tourist industry that we have that's booming.

[ Cymbals clanging, music continues ] ♪♪ -Yo, yo, yo, yo.

[ Pump humming ] -I just want to make sure we have enough headroom.

-After spending a full day in Kingston, we radioed for Casper to get us out of the city.

-Looking for an escape, he seemed like the perfect person to start an adventure with.

[ Mid-tempo music plays ] -There goes the belt.

We're in good territory.

We can relax.

-[ Laughs ] [ Indistinct conversations ] ♪♪ -We reached the parish of St. Elizabeth, a mainly agricultural community stretching from the island's mineral-rich western center to the south shore.

The higher elevation leading back down to the coast provides a cool breeze and welcomed escape from the city's heat.

-Oh.

Gut River.

-There it is.

It's right here.

-Yes.

We reach.

♪♪ [ Birds chirping ] ♪♪ [ Goat bleats, chicken clucking ] [ Pig grunting ] -All right.

[ Laughs ] ♪♪ Bredren!

We reach.

We reach.

-Yeah.

This is Tingle.

-Gut River is a little-known oasis off the beaten tourist path.

We wanted to understand the main differences between city and country, so we asked a group of local taxi operators for their perspective.

-It's late night.

Where are you gonna take a passenger who wants to get something to eat?

-It would seem that the general consensus is Jamaica's KFC is much better than whatever is manufactured in the United States.

[ Laughter ] -How much power is behind this spear?

-Check it.

I got the perfect thing.

We're gonna take you swimming.

You can wear this.

[ Laughter ] They'll match the socks, man.

[ Laughter ] -Yo, your face was priceless.

[ Mid-tempo music plays ] ♪♪ ♪♪ -Oh, yay!

-Hey, hey, hey, hey!

♪♪ -Seems like you can't take the yaad from out the yaadie.

-For a city driver like Casper, a trip out to the country was just what the doctor ordered.

Sometimes you got to treat yourself, because moments like these can be so far removed.

♪♪ -Greetings in the name of His Imperial Majesty, who reveals himself in the personality of Emperor Haile Selassie I.

♪♪